More details on my Burdastyle Cape Jacket … Part one is here
The photo below shows the sleeve inserted between the front and side front panel and has the side back panel attached.
I realised at this point that it might be easier to line the side panels before attaching the sleeves. Just for the sake of having less fabric pieces to wrangle with at the machine.
I mentioned in my last post that the sleeve pleats looked bulky, so I removed the sleeve and trimmed the pleats from the inside.
Then I lined the side / underarm panels before re-attaching the sleeves. Underarm curves sewn right sides together:
Curves clipped, turned right side out, pressed and then understitched:
I also stitched the centre back seam on the main fabric and had cut the back lining on a fold with an added pleat at the back neck.
I joined the sleeve at the back by sandwiching it between the back panel and side panel. First laying out the back (right side up), then the sleeve (right side down), then the side panels (right side down).
Notice how the side back panel does not reach up to the back neckline – there is a notch on the back panel for lining this up.
Then to add to any confusion you might have…(hopefully I’m making sense!)… I placed the back lining right side down and stitched through all layers – but only for about 1/3 of the way down. See below:
The reason being I wanted the fabric and lining to hang free from each other below this point for comfort and for ease of hemming later.
You can see in the photo below that I kept the lining and fabric separate when sewing the rest of the seam.
I repeated this process with the other side, except I didn’t catch the back lining piece until later as it would have been too awkward.
Here it is inside-out on my dressform.
I closed the lining seam after this photo. I pinned from the right side and the reached inside to pull through the top part to machine sew .
I took a break to assemble the neck facing . I have a fabric in mind to make a dress or skirt to wear with this jacket. So I used a bias-cut strip of that fabric to finish the facing edges: (it also matches the lining!)
Phew….nearly there … I love this type of jigsaw puzzle!