Burda 10/2016 104 (fancy pocket dress!)

This is a rarity for me – actually using a Burda Style Magazine in the same month as it was purchased.  I attempted the Burda Challenge in 2015, where you make something from each months issue, but I abandoned it early in the year.  It didn’t suit the way I make things.  I don’t shop for fabric regularly – I tend to pick fabric up as I see it, and then let it gather dust until the perfect pattern shows up.

The pattern is described on the Burdastyle site as the “Fancy Pocket Dress” !

pic

I’ve had the fabric more than two years – I got it from an Op shop in Australia. That makes me sounds like a globetrotter (I wish!)- I’d happily pack my bags and get on a plane to anywhere, but circumstances don’t usually allow for travel!  So that was my first time abroad in years, and I loved it! I saw lots of Melbourne and a little of Sydney. Anyway, on one of the days I took a bus tour to the Grampians and during a rest break, while everyone was getting tea – I popped into an Op shop and picked up a few bits, this fabric being one of them.

It’s a light stretch cotton, and I had 1.5 metres – which is less than the pattern calls for, but I had enough. I should say that the dress pattern is longer than it looks in the magazine- I cut 3 inches off the hem before sewing it.

_20161009_160840

 

Despite the complicated shape of the pockets, this dress came together pretty quickly. I made it on a Friday evening and wore it to dinner on the Saturday evening! It isn’t lined – just overlocked and I made narrow facings for the necklines.

Because of the stretch in the fabric, I used iron-on interfacing strips at the neckline, shoulders and centre back at the zipper.

img_20161013_32217

 

The instructions for the pockets were as clear as usual with Burda…! So I took a few pictures as I went along which might help if anyone plans to make this.

This is how the skirt looked from the wrong side – I interfaced at the base of the pockets before snipping into the fabric. ( the centre pleats are tacked in place)

m1

 

You then need to pivot the pockets upwards at the point where it was snipped:

 

The pocket folds back on itself – you then stitch the pocket seam ,from the point at the base to the top edge- seen below at the left of the pocket piece.

(my pocket shape is a little uneven as I had to cut into the plain selvedge to get it to fit)

 

The baste the top edges to hold in place, before joining the skirt front to the bodice front.

The picture below is of the front right of the skirt – the triangle on the left is where the pocket was pivoted. You need to make sure to catch this fully when sewing the skirt side seams.

img_20161013_36586

 

Other than that, the dress was straight forward to make – once I had inserted the zip and joined the front and back at the shoulders, I tried it on and pinned the bodice sides to fit, continuing down to the skirt. Because of the triangle cutout at the pocket on the skirt, it would be difficult to let this out on the hips, unless you adjusted the width of the pleats.

When I tried it on, I didn’t like how much the pockets stuck out. My fabric wasn’t quite as drapey as suggested.  So I improvised by pushing the pocket in towards the centre front, and topstitching it down – it looks like an extra pleat on the skirt, and means the pocket is still roomy enough to use, but doesn’t stick out as much.

_20161009_161058

 

That’s about it really – I’ll be keeping the pattern handy, as I would love this in a lighter fabric for the summer – and it looked great without the sleeves, so a sleeeveless version will have to go on the to-do list.

 

 

 

Advertisements

Feb Burdastyle : skirt 109 continued…

Thanks everyone for all your helpful comments on my last post. My posed photo didn’t show enough detail so I’m posting some extra skirt photos that I took on my dressform.

image

A little note if you plan to make this – I really think it benefits from the belt loops:

image

It has been very comfortable to wear in comparison to another wrap skirt I own. With the other skirt, I’ve had the problem of the tie-belt slipping above the waistband every time I sat down. Whereas it stays put on this skirt thanks to the loops.

image

As mentioned in some comments (and I agree), it needs to be styled differently and worn with a more fitted top. I also plan to attach the pockets ( and maybe add some colour with embroidery?) But in the meantime here’s how it looks – Back view first:

image

Below you can see that the back pleat is stitched closed at the top half of the skirt:

image

The faux wrap portion of the skirt :

image

And here it is opened back:

image

So there you go, hope that gives a clearer idea of how this looks made up! till next time xx

Jan Burdastyle – 107 01/2015

Just in time….. I finished my top from the Jan Burdastyle Magazine. Everyone commenting agreed that it needed the pocket, so that stayed put:

image

I’m wearing a black top underneath, so the neckline shape looks like a triangle – but it’s actually the bound split as per the pattern:

image

I cut a size 34 ( I’m closer to a 36 with burdastyle but didn’t want it to be too big). It fits well, its cosy, and I’ve been wearing it all day…but… I’m not overly keen on the way the drop shoulders look.

image

These are the most flattering of the pictures to be honest. When I see this in the mirror I want to change the shoulders. So, we’ll see – it might get reworked. Because I really like the loose boxy style.

I’m also pretty happy with the high-low hem that Dawn suggested :

image

Not scratching my head here...!

Speaking of reworking… I took a seam ripper to my shirtsdress. I had worn it twice, but found the belt/sleeves a bit bulky under jackets so I removed them:

image

I also tweaked the back waist a little so that it would sit better against the curve of my back:

image

So next for the Burdastyle challenge….? I bought the Feb issue of Burdastyle this week and have my mind set on this skirt:

image

Skirt 109 Burdastyle 02/2015

I loved the pleats at the front and the large pockets. I was pleasantly surprised to see that it’s a wrap skirt!

image

It’s always good to have a bit of wiggle room with a skirt waist 🙂

I’ll leave it there for tonight – apart from one last look at the top ( which I only just realised – unintentionally fits with the whole Jungle January theme I keep seeing on blogs ! ! )

image

Burda 04/2014 dress 106 …. why a muslin would have been a good idea

It’s been a longer break than expected but I’m back with an update on my blue dress.   Judging by the number of views the last post received, I think more than a few people are considering making this! So I just want to say Hi! to any new followers – thanks for stopping by and do let us know if anyone else is working on this dress.

I had planned to have this burda dress finished before my holidays in April, but it just didn’t happen.  Nevermind,  it will still be worn when it’s done!

Here’s a reminder below of the dress in question:

burda dress 04 2014 line drawing

I had gotten as far as this with it:

20140329_141108

The sleeves were tacked in and the side seams stitched together. But when I tried it on, it did as expected and pooled weirdly around the legs.

I decided to stitch the pleats in place to hold their shape.  I first pressed each side as far as the hem .Then pressed them towards the center of the dress.  I had taken pictures of theses steps but unfortunately they were deleted by mistake.!

I did encounter another problem after trying on again- it was almost impossible to raise my arms without hiking up the entire dress. The armholes seem to be very low.  I cut a slit in the sleeve  as it was impossible to lift my arm!

I’ve since taken out the sleeves and plan to bind or face the armholes and just leave the dress sleevless. ….ahh lesson learned… shoulda done a muslin!  I parked it for a few days to work on some less taxing sewing and also machine knitting – which worked out really well.

Stayed tuned for my version of Marianne Cant’s  Slouchy Cardigan – made in less than 24 hours! Exactly what I needed ater struggling with my blue dress 🙂

Burda 04/2014 – Dress 106

Have you seen the April Burdastyle Magazine?  It’s the best I’ve seen in a long time.   Finally some interesting designs worth tracing off !   In fact, as soon as I got it home, I traced off this number:

burda dress 04 2014

I love the fold over detail at the front – not sure I like how it is folding in at the legs, I’ve noticed a few other bloggers mentioning it too. I’m hoping that I can figure a way to make it look better.

The line drawing gives a clearer picture :

burda dress 04 2014 line drawing

 

It’s also shown as a top in printed fabric.   Which I think I could always shorten it into, if the dress doesn’t hang nicely.

I’ve had some dark blue crepe de chine ( poly – something , definitely not silk!), in my cupboard with over a year.   It was just waiting for this kind of pattern.  So far I’ve begun to assemble it and, even though it is illustrated in the pull-out section, it is still a little bit of a head scratcher.

My measurements almost match the size 36 ( bust & hips –  my waist is always closer to the 38).   I cut this as a 36 as it looks to have enough wearing ease to allow for a larger waist ( but I added a half inch to the side seams just in case)

This is what the folded front piece looks like :

 20140321_142409

 

I rarely use chalk to mark darts or dots, instead I pin right on the dot and then sew to where the pin is.

wpid-wp-1405796100689.jpeg

 

 

Here’s the front piece opened out . The rectangular shapes are the draped front & collar pieces.

open front piece

The drape pieces are folded in half toward the centre of the dress and stitched from the marked notch to the dot at the end of the v , and back up to the centre front.

20140321_143029

Here is how the centre of the dress looks after stitching:   The instructions tell you to fold down the tip of the centre front piece before you sew.

wpid-wp-1405796128357.jpeg

And here is the right side :

wpid-wp-1405796116428.jpeg

The wrong side again after both sides have been stitched:  The instructions tell you to reinforce the v points before stitching ( which I forgot to do) And then to snip into the v as close to the stitches as you can.

wpid-wp-1405796138060.jpeg

Then from the right side you need to reach in pull the drape pieces right side out and then press:

20140321_145342

How it looks after both sides have been pulled through:

20140321_145400

The next part of the magazine instructions were a bit confusing to me,  I’m not sure if it was tiredness on my part or that the pictures threw me off slightly.  But it took me a minute to understand that I was to partially baste each draped piece to the front neckline.20140326_211834

Lining up notches, I then pinned and basted some of the way along the front neckline:

20140326_211945

After that I sewed the darts in the back piece, and then basted the side seams and shoulder seams. I also basted in a sleeve.

20140329_141108

And then it was ready for trying on….. no pics I’m afraid as it was pretty late at that stage.  The fit was pretty good, it has nice shaping in the back. Although it calls for a side zip, I was able to pull it on without any trouble, so I might not bother with one.

The centre front skirt is going to be an issue. It is pooling oddly around the legs because the folds are opening out.  So far,  I have two options of fixing it that I’m trying to decide between.   Either I follow the line of the draped piece with a line of stitching on the right side to make them like angled pleats . Or I stitch the folds on the inside so that they don’t open up.  I came across a good example of how to do this on the ‘Off The Cuff’ blog-  Here’s a wonderful tutorial on controlling a bias pleat 

I’m experimenting with it and will have it figured sooner rather than later, as I really want this finished in time for my Hols next week !