Quick Tip – Button sewing

I hope 2018 has started off smoothly for you? Luckily I didn’t blog about any new years resolutions or I would have to go back to delete that post!

It’s been a while… Blogging was abandoned while annoying distractions like work got in the way… So to ease back into 2018, here’s one I made earlier ūüėČ

A little thing that catches my eye is when buttons are stitched on so firmly that they pucker the garment.¬† If the button is sewn on too tightly, there isn’t any space for the layer with the buttonhole to fit.

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Ideally with a flat button, you should leave some room between the button and the button band, so that the buttonhole layer fits nicely, and doesn’t look either squished or too loose.¬† The amount of space depends on the thickness of the layer on top.

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Which brings me to my old black cardi… I’ve been working my way through some alterations – after having a big clean out of clutter.¬† I had bundles of clothes given to me by family members to re-use, along with bags of fabrics – mostly curtain remnants.¬† I sent the bulk of it to recycling – and I was left with just one box of clothes that were worth altering, and one box of clothes that I might re-use at some point.¬† All the extra stuff had just gathered over the years and was getting in the way. Now I can finally see all the pieces that I actually want to use!

One item for a quick fix was a cropped black cardi that was missing some buttons.¬† I found 6 buttons that were almost exactly the same …sometimes close enough is good enough!

 

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I used a hairslide under the button to give a little breathing room:

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Stitched through a couple of times

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Then removed the slide, brought the thread up between the button and fabric and wound it around 4-5times, then brought the thread to the back and knotted it off. Job done!

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I’ll keep dipping into that box of alterations, and hopefully it won’t start to grow into multiple boxes again!

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How to shorten a jacket cuff…by not shortening a jacket cuff!

I try to avoid most alterations, they can become more than you bargained for – see Mrs Mole’s blog if you need to understand why!  But sometimes I will repay a favour to a friend, which is how this came my way.
 I needed to shorten a child’s suit jacket sleeve (image below).  It has three buttons and buttonholes, and was needed quickly.

But rather than mess with those buttons and hem corners, I took off the sleeves, and cut the extra length from the top.

I traced the new seamline with thread and checked the fit and new length.  Then it was just a quick trim before fitting it back into the armhole.

This could also be done with a mans suit , depending on how much needs to be shortened. Look out for a very tapered sleeve as if you move down too far you might not have enough width to fill the armhole!  Always a good idea to thread trace and check fit first ūüôā

Covering buttons – a diy solution

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Apparently necessity is the mother of invention.¬† Well I needed two satin covered buttons and quickly. My solution is not something I’d recommend –¬†unless there’s no time for a better option!

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I was putting the finishing touches on a friends jacket, and we hadn’t bought any self-cover buttons, because I was certain that I already had some………… Nope.

But I did have some flat metal buttons with a small shank. ¬†The buttons are purely for¬†decoration,¬†and as they won’t be handled much, I came up with a quick fix. ¬†(This is about as far from a couture method as you can get!)

I cut circles from the satin (slightly larger than the buttons),  and gathered them around the buttons ;

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Then I cut two more circles slightly smaller than the buttons.

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I used a lighter to seal the raw edges Рthis only works with synthetic fabrics.   Then I cut a small slit in the centre, and these were placed over the backs, like so-

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A glue gun was used to attach them.

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I then stitched them to the organza jacket, with a small square of organza inside the jacket as reinforcement for the light fabric.

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Here’s what the jacket looked like finished – it’s almost impossible to photograph because of the transparency! ¬†Unfortunately I didn’t have time to stop and get in-progress photos. ¬†It was an interesting project, using a mix of bound and French seams.
Ps…..
*** If you want to have some buttons covered properly, have a look at the beautiful ones Helen used on her last dress ***

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Lisette B6168 Red dress

I have yet to get some pictures of my new¬†culottes, so in the meantime I’m sharing some details from a dress I’ve been making.¬† It’s a Lisette dress from Butterick –¬†B6168.

There is a detailed sew-along on the Lisette site, but¬†their version is unlined.¬†¬†So because I’m lining my dress, some pictures might be helpful for anyone who wants to add a lining.

 

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My main fabric is a red linen-look cotton, I bought it locally as the end of a roll.¬†Minerva Crafts looks to have something similar for sale ¬†(I’ve sent for¬†a sample¬†and,¬†if it is the same fabric, I might buy some for a light summer top)¬†.¬†¬† It is quite lightweight, so I am lining it with a lightweight cotton that I had lying around.

 

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There are centre front pleats which could make lining it bulky, so the front bodice panels are actually underlined ( both fabric are tacked together and then treated as one piece). The pleats are then folded and held in place with pins or tacking stitches. I made a quick muslin of the bodice and it fit well – so if you’re above a b-cup, you would most likely need to alter the pattern first!

 

The centre front facing is being attached below:

 

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Here’s how the inside right bodice looks:

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The front tab is caught in the stitching of the facing on the right side . The facing is understitched as far as possible:

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The tab is then caught onto the left bodice when sewing the other facing on:

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Here is how it looks from the inside ,after the fronts were overlapped and the waist band pieces have been attached:    bod8

 

I am working on it in small chunks of time in between other work and it is coming together nicely.

I’ve¬†also cast on a new knitting project!!! I’m determined to have some new knits ready in plenty¬†of time for next¬†winter.¬†¬†All the fantastic entries from SWAP 2015 must have inspired me to start planning my projects ahead of time!!

P.S …..Check out this years winner Kate¬†who blogs at¬†Fabrickated¬†

 

 

Invisible Zipper finish sewing tip

*Hi there new visitors & welcome. If you find this tip helpful be sure to follow Make&Wear for future posts :)*

Sometimes invisible zips worry me that they will come open. Especially when they start at the waist of a skirt. Instead of a hook and eye (which can be difficult to see). I use a fabric loop and button – on the inside.

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Before the facing goes on, I catch a loop of lining fabric onto the zipper tape as below-

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Then attach the facing as normal :

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And all that’s left to do is sew a small flat button onto the opposite side of the zip ūüôā That should save any wardrobe malfunctions! ! Happy sewing, Chris