Denim Burda remake : 104 10/2016

I’m taking a break from making Roman blinds for my sister to write this…I generally only do these things for family ! They’re not difficult to make – more boring really, so I’m listening to podcasts (mostly Blindboy – I’d recommend btw – they’re pretty absorbing,  but only if you’re not offended by swearing!), and taking lots ..ie too many breaks 🙂

I’d always planned to make another version of this Burda dress, but I didn’t think it’d take 2 years!

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I actually made this back in August, but there was something that annoyed me about where the waist hit.  So,the other day, I separated the skirt from the bodice and added a 1″ strip at the waist. I then topstitched it to match the neckline.

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And it feels so much better. I don’t remember lengthening the bodice in the original, but there was something about the weight of this fabric that just felt better to have the skirt hit my waist a bit lower. ( sorry blurry pic below!)

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Because of my fabric width, I had to reduce the pocket flare a little, by folding out a crease on the pattern piece.  Which worked fine, since I didn’t like how far the pockets stuck out on the original pattern.

(Blurry and serious/cranky pose below!)

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I left off the sleeves due to fabric shortages, but it’s probably more versatile now.  I’m wearing it with a mustard polo neck, and it also looks grand with a shirt underneath. Since I’m always shivering – I wore it yesterday layered with my handknit cardigan (pattern by Andi Satterlund), and scarf that I bought for peanuts in a charity shop! 

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So, sin an scéal! Back to the blinds..

 

Burdastyle Cape Jacket 105 03/2018 (part2)

More details on my Burdastyle Cape Jacket … Part one is here

The photo below shows the sleeve inserted between the front and side front panel and has the side back panel attached.

I realised at this point that it might be easier to line the side panels before attaching the sleeves. Just for the sake of having less fabric pieces to wrangle with at the machine.

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I mentioned in my last post that the sleeve pleats looked bulky, so I removed the sleeve and trimmed the pleats from the inside.

Then I lined the side / underarm panels before re-attaching the sleeves.  Underarm curves sewn right sides together:

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Curves clipped, turned right side out, pressed and then understitched:

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I also stitched the centre back seam on the main fabric and had cut the back lining on a fold with an added pleat at the back neck.

I joined the sleeve at the back by sandwiching it between the back panel and side panel.  First laying out the back (right side up), then the sleeve (right side down), then the side panels (right side down).

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Notice how the side back panel does not reach up to the back neckline – there is a notch on the back panel for lining this up.

Then to add to any confusion you might have…(hopefully I’m making sense!)… I placed the back lining right side down and stitched through all layers – but only for about 1/3 of the way down. See below:

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The reason being I wanted the fabric and lining to hang free from each other below this point for comfort and for ease of hemming later.

You can see in the photo below that I kept the lining and fabric separate when sewing the rest of the seam.

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I repeated this process with the other side, except I didn’t catch the back lining piece until later as it would have been too awkward.

Here it is inside-out on my dressform.

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I closed the lining seam after this photo. I pinned from the right side and the reached inside to pull through the top part to machine sew .

 

I took a break to assemble the neck facing . I have a fabric in mind to make a dress or skirt to wear with this jacket. So I used a bias-cut strip of that fabric to finish the facing edges: (it also matches the lining!)

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Phew….nearly there … I love this type of jigsaw puzzle!