Burda 04/2014 dress 106 …. why a muslin would have been a good idea

It’s been a longer break than expected but I’m back with an update on my blue dress.   Judging by the number of views the last post received, I think more than a few people are considering making this! So I just want to say Hi! to any new followers – thanks for stopping by and do let us know if anyone else is working on this dress.

I had planned to have this burda dress finished before my holidays in April, but it just didn’t happen.  Nevermind,  it will still be worn when it’s done!

Here’s a reminder below of the dress in question:

burda dress 04 2014 line drawing

I had gotten as far as this with it:

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The sleeves were tacked in and the side seams stitched together. But when I tried it on, it did as expected and pooled weirdly around the legs.

I decided to stitch the pleats in place to hold their shape.  I first pressed each side as far as the hem .Then pressed them towards the center of the dress.  I had taken pictures of theses steps but unfortunately they were deleted by mistake.!

I did encounter another problem after trying on again- it was almost impossible to raise my arms without hiking up the entire dress. The armholes seem to be very low.  I cut a slit in the sleeve  as it was impossible to lift my arm!

I’ve since taken out the sleeves and plan to bind or face the armholes and just leave the dress sleevless. ….ahh lesson learned… shoulda done a muslin!  I parked it for a few days to work on some less taxing sewing and also machine knitting – which worked out really well.

Stayed tuned for my version of Marianne Cant’s  Slouchy Cardigan – made in less than 24 hours! Exactly what I needed ater struggling with my blue dress 🙂

Burda 04/2014 – Dress 106

Have you seen the April Burdastyle Magazine?  It’s the best I’ve seen in a long time.   Finally some interesting designs worth tracing off !   In fact, as soon as I got it home, I traced off this number:

burda dress 04 2014

I love the fold over detail at the front – not sure I like how it is folding in at the legs, I’ve noticed a few other bloggers mentioning it too. I’m hoping that I can figure a way to make it look better.

The line drawing gives a clearer picture :

burda dress 04 2014 line drawing

 

It’s also shown as a top in printed fabric.   Which I think I could always shorten it into, if the dress doesn’t hang nicely.

I’ve had some dark blue crepe de chine ( poly – something , definitely not silk!), in my cupboard with over a year.   It was just waiting for this kind of pattern.  So far I’ve begun to assemble it and, even though it is illustrated in the pull-out section, it is still a little bit of a head scratcher.

My measurements almost match the size 36 ( bust & hips –  my waist is always closer to the 38).   I cut this as a 36 as it looks to have enough wearing ease to allow for a larger waist ( but I added a half inch to the side seams just in case)

This is what the folded front piece looks like :

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I rarely use chalk to mark darts or dots, instead I pin right on the dot and then sew to where the pin is.

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Here’s the front piece opened out . The rectangular shapes are the draped front & collar pieces.

open front piece

The drape pieces are folded in half toward the centre of the dress and stitched from the marked notch to the dot at the end of the v , and back up to the centre front.

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Here is how the centre of the dress looks after stitching:   The instructions tell you to fold down the tip of the centre front piece before you sew.

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And here is the right side :

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The wrong side again after both sides have been stitched:  The instructions tell you to reinforce the v points before stitching ( which I forgot to do) And then to snip into the v as close to the stitches as you can.

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Then from the right side you need to reach in pull the drape pieces right side out and then press:

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How it looks after both sides have been pulled through:

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The next part of the magazine instructions were a bit confusing to me,  I’m not sure if it was tiredness on my part or that the pictures threw me off slightly.  But it took me a minute to understand that I was to partially baste each draped piece to the front neckline.20140326_211834

Lining up notches, I then pinned and basted some of the way along the front neckline:

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After that I sewed the darts in the back piece, and then basted the side seams and shoulder seams. I also basted in a sleeve.

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And then it was ready for trying on….. no pics I’m afraid as it was pretty late at that stage.  The fit was pretty good, it has nice shaping in the back. Although it calls for a side zip, I was able to pull it on without any trouble, so I might not bother with one.

The centre front skirt is going to be an issue. It is pooling oddly around the legs because the folds are opening out.  So far,  I have two options of fixing it that I’m trying to decide between.   Either I follow the line of the draped piece with a line of stitching on the right side to make them like angled pleats . Or I stitch the folds on the inside so that they don’t open up.  I came across a good example of how to do this on the ‘Off The Cuff’ blog-  Here’s a wonderful tutorial on controlling a bias pleat 

I’m experimenting with it and will have it figured sooner rather than later, as I really want this finished in time for my Hols next week !