Feb Burda challenge skirt

Hi there! Just as Feb ends I’m finally posting my finished skirt…

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It’s been finished with a while, but I’m a bit meh about it to be honest.
First the good – I love the wrap style (faux wrap in honesty). It fits well and I can see myself making one in a different fabric and slightly shorter.

The back has a lovely fit…sorry forgot to snap a picture! The back pleat gets stitched closed halfway down so it’s a flattering shape.

But between the light blue colour and the front pleat it just makes me think of a uniform skirt….

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See what I mean? !!

I think I’ll add the pockets and shorten it a little before I decide whether to send it to the thrift shop!

In progress – Feb Burdastyle Skirt

I made a start on my wrap skirt yesterday, either side of watching the second episode of The Great British Sewing Bee. The challenges were all based around childrenswear which a few of the contestants had never sewn. The Elephant costume was a well deserved winner for garment of the week. It was a pity to see Alex leave – I had picked another person as being likely to go. Sewing while under pressure is no easy task !! I also thought Lorna should have come first instead of second for the waistcoat challenge!!

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Wrap skirt front view

I love seeing sewing on Tv, it’s bringing sewing to a whole generation that was never taught. ( I was one of only 2 girls in my entire year at school, who knew how to sew). But I do feel bad for the time pressures put on contestants –  It doesn’t make sewing seem like the relaxing and rewarding pastime it can be. 

But back to my skirt! –

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Front right

I overlocked the split, and folded back the least amount I could. Then top stitched in place:

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I prefer a shaped waistband, so after cutting the strips as instructed, I marked where the waistband lined up with the skirt darts:

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Folded the band at that point ( marked with yellow pin)

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Then marked and stitched a small dart:

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I snipped the dart at the center to balance it out before pressing:

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Waistband with shaping

I added belt loops to keep the waist ties in place – they are trapped between the waistband and skirt:

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They are left free at the top for now:

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But once the side seams have been stitched on the waistband, I will top stitch the loops across the top.

Jan Burdastyle – 107 01/2015

Just in time….. I finished my top from the Jan Burdastyle Magazine. Everyone commenting agreed that it needed the pocket, so that stayed put:

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I’m wearing a black top underneath, so the neckline shape looks like a triangle – but it’s actually the bound split as per the pattern:

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I cut a size 34 ( I’m closer to a 36 with burdastyle but didn’t want it to be too big). It fits well, its cosy, and I’ve been wearing it all day…but… I’m not overly keen on the way the drop shoulders look.

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These are the most flattering of the pictures to be honest. When I see this in the mirror I want to change the shoulders. So, we’ll see – it might get reworked. Because I really like the loose boxy style.

I’m also pretty happy with the high-low hem that Dawn suggested :

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Not scratching my head here...!

Speaking of reworking… I took a seam ripper to my shirtsdress. I had worn it twice, but found the belt/sleeves a bit bulky under jackets so I removed them:

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I also tweaked the back waist a little so that it would sit better against the curve of my back:

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So next for the Burdastyle challenge….? I bought the Feb issue of Burdastyle this week and have my mind set on this skirt:

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Skirt 109 Burdastyle 02/2015

I loved the pleats at the front and the large pockets. I was pleasantly surprised to see that it’s a wrap skirt!

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It’s always good to have a bit of wiggle room with a skirt waist 🙂

I’ll leave it there for tonight – apart from one last look at the top ( which I only just realised – unintentionally fits with the whole Jungle January theme I keep seeing on blogs ! ! )

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Burda Challenge 2015 – Style 107

Hi there – hope you’re cosy and warm wherever you are! The Irish weather has turned very cold the last week and I’ve needed extra layers to keep warm. Most of my sewing so far this year has been to tweak some previous makes as there were a few things stopping me from wearing them.

For future making, I need to fill some wardrobe gaps. I’ve noticed that I don’t own many sweatshirts or slouchy jumpers, so some new sewing was in order!

I’ve started on a top from January’s Burda magazine:

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Style 107 Burda 01/2015

The other day I signed up to the Burda Challenge 2015 which Dawn who blogs here has organised. The idea is to sew a garment per month from that months Burda Magazine (either a 2015 issue or a previous year).

This months make is a pretty simple style , made in a thick fabric in the magazine :

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My fabric is much lighter – it’s a woven wool mix fabric that I’ve mixed with a black pointe (as I didn’t have enough on it’s own)

The sleeves are in two pieces and are attached to the body before sewing the other seams.

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They are then sewn together across shoulders and down the sleeve in one pass

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The neckline is bound with a strip of the pointe fabric

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After a try-on , I wasn’t sure if I liked it! The drop shoulders exaggerate the width of my straight shoulders. I also thought the length was a bit dowdy! I’ve pinned it shorter and am thinking of adding a patch pocket – here’s where it stands so far –

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I haven’t decided if I’ll bind the hem yet but I think I’ll keep the pocket! Either way it’s good to get some sewing started for the new year 🙂

September Burda dress 122 09/14

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Burda 09/14

Hi there:) Since the last post I’ve been knitting furiously on my City Cape from Purlsoho in a tweedy grey yarn. Unless Halloween costume-making takes over, it should be finished soon!

The dress pictured here was one of my favourites from the September Burdastyle magazine.  It has very interesting seam lines and not too many pieces to trace. I started buying Burda magazines over 15 years ago and once I faced my fear of using them (took about five years!) I found their sizing worked well for me. 

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I made this from some lightweight (poly mix) suiting. The grey was a remnant bought in Fabric Select in Dublin and the black was leftover from an old project. I traced the size 36- but as my waist is the larger size, I cut it with 2cm side and center back seam allowances. All other seams were cut at 1cm to make it easier to sew the curved pieces accurately. I then assembled the front and backs and pinned the sides to fit my shape.

I traced a neck facing instead of lining it

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Inside view showing neck facing

I understitched the facings and also held them with a handstitch to the inside seams.

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I also needed to leave slits in the shoulders to allow for proper arm movement.  When the seams were fully stitched, it meant the entire dress lifted when I raised my arms. I suspect it was a combination of my straight shoulders and narrow sleeves which caused this.

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Split at shoulders

I used a centered zipper

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I also omitted the center front panel on the skirt by just extending the center front line on the pattern piece and drawing a new hemline.

It was a pretty quick make as I didn’t make any muslin and fitted as I went along which usually works out ok. I rarely spend too much time adjusting patterns unless I think I will be making more than one of it. My to – sew list is so long that I rarely make things twice!