Simplicity Shirtdress 8014 – construction notes

I’m sharing some construction notes for my Simplicity 8014 dress that might be useful for anyone considering making it.

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Pattern Sizing –

For my measurements 33-28-38, (b cup). I cut a 10 in the bodice which I graded out to a 12 in the hips. (I don’t normally add to patterns at the hips) Yet this gave just the right amount of wearing ease for me.

If you are pear-shaped, or normally need to add to patterns at the hips, then carefully measure the pattern pieces as you may need to go up more than one size at the hips.

Construction –

I made this with french seams on the sleeve and side seams – they could also be overlocked or bound.

I found this tutorial very useful for seaming the sides with in-seam pockets : In-seam pockets with french seams.

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french seamed pockets

 

Hemming

The sleeve hems feature a neat tuck, which traps the raw edge of the hem inside the tuck.

The pattern instructions didn’t make sense to me at first – I couldn’t picture the outcome, but I followed along with the pattern steps and they worked out fine.

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Sleeve hems with tuck detail

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Sleeve hem interior

The dress hem is curved at the sides, and is finished with a shaped facing. The instructions were mostly fine, but I changed how the facing attaches at the centre fronts. The pattern step included some hand sewing.

The way I did the facing was to turn the button band toward the dress fronts,then sit the facing on top of the button band and dress hem, sew the bottom seam and turn through. The facing then gets caught with the later top-stitching.

 

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Button band folded towards front and hem facing pinned over button band and dress hem.

 

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Hem finish

 

 

Button Placement

I didn’t follow the pattern for button placement, as I wanted to wear a belt without it catching on a button every time I sat down. So I marked the button placement with pins, while I was wearing the belt.

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Using pins to mark button placement

 

I also didn’t have enough buttons to get as close to the hem as I would have liked, instead I top-stitched just below the last button, to keep the hem from flying open in a breeze!

(You might notice that the last button doesn’t have a buttonhole – it’s just stitched on through all the layers – that’s because I found that button under my sewing machine when I was tidying up after myself!)

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topstitched for safety!

 

And that’s as much as I remember, hope it was useful! I’m on the lookout for more fabric to make this again, I could see it becoming my winter uniform – layered up with boots and tights 🙂

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8 thoughts on “Simplicity Shirtdress 8014 – construction notes

  1. I’ve noticed more and more recently, maybe just because I’ve been looking that very many RTW pockets are sewn in this way. Which is beautifully neat! I see this finish also on jeans pockets and I used it on welt pockets on an unlined jacket. The technique is such a neat finish.
    Your shirt dress looks fab. Great make.

  2. I think all your changes improve the dress and are clever. I think this “long shirt” design is definitely for younger women with good legs. For myself I would consider the longer version with a waist seam and a more flared skirt. I think the collar looks really smart. I would avoid the long sleeves myself.

  3. I loved reading this and seeing the results of your hard work. I’m very new to seeing however I’ve bought my first pattern (an easy for a beginner) and I’m slowly building up the skills AND confidence to get started on it. This post has inspired me to take the next step and make a start. I hope that I can produce something that looks as well made as your project.

    • Best of luck with your new project. I taught myself to sew by working slowly through every pattern, and sometimes taking apart old clothes to see how they were made! Lots of patience and you’ll get there:)

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