Invisible Zipper finish sewing tip

Sometimes invisible zips worry me that they will come open. Especially when they start at the waist of a skirt. Instead of a hook and eye (which can be difficult to see). I use a fabric loop and button – on the inside.


Side seam invisible zipper

Before I the facing goes on I catch a loop of lining fabric onto the zipper tape as below-


Then attach the facing as normal :


And all that’s left to do is sew a small flat button onto the opposite side of the zip :) That should save any wardrobe malfunctions! !

Cheap & Cheerful ….. a new top from an old dress

Do you end up with bag-loads of other peoples clothes because they know you can sew?  I do!! No one ever sends their clothes to the charity shop without letting me have a look through first !! That’s how I came upon the dress pictured below on the left:

before & after

Old dress into new top


It was a dress that was no longer being worn and I was drawn to the bright colours on it.  The fabric was 100% cotton and I knew I might just squeeze a sleeveless top from it!  I used this Simplicity pattern ( which I’ve made up before )

simplicity 2599

Simplicity 2599


** just a little note if you plan to make this** – I cut mine about 5cm shorter than the pattern as I found it was a bit too long for my taste.

I started by checking if the pieces would fit using the lower portion of the dress:

1checking pattern

sizing up the front pattern piece




It was clear that the top would extend into the other panels on the dress – but the waist section was a heavier fabric that had piping so I wasn’t too keen to use it.  Instead I decided to patch together the pieces of the dress that I wanted to use. and avoid using the piped waistband piece.

I started by cutting apart the dress and the cut out the main back piece :


Back on fold

Which looked like so:4

I then added a dark blue strip along the top, stitching right side together and overlocking the seam:


And then finished cutting out the back piece:



I approached the front piece in a similar way, fitting as much as I could on the fabric:


Adding a piece to the shoulder:


How it looked after adding shoulder pieces:


I bound the neckline and armholes with bias fabric strips:

blue top armholes

It came together quickly and here’s the finished top!

front on hanger

with jeans

Sewing success from a knit failure

Nothing to post yet on my efforts with my OAL Dress…. lots of interuptions to regular sewing !! But I’ve had some pictures ready to post with a while so here we go….
I’ve mentioned before that I own a pretty old Knitting Machine which I’m slowly teaching myself to use.   I have even made something very wearable!.  But before that there were quite a few wtf pieces that will never see the light of day ( or blog!).   But there is one such piece I am prepared to share, since I managed to salvage the remains!


I had gone all creative making a dropped stitch design on the front piece and using some black yarn on the back piece.  Here’s the before picture:

red jumper lge

wonky geansai – not even slightly wearable


The neckline is a mess, the hem is a mess, it hangs away from the body stiffly and the sleeves were pretty gross too!!

close up red jumper

oh dear…


I made alot of beginner mistakes on this one.  First up I didn’t make a swatch…. Big Mistake! I ended up with a sweater that was stiff instead of draping nicely.   I had knit it too tightly, but thought it would soften up in the wash.  It didn’t.

I also misjudged the sizing, so ended up with sleeves that were too wide at the top and just looked ugly. The neckline doesn’t bear mentioning, it was just wrong! But because I tried to fix my sweater by taking the sewing machine to the seams ( yep bad idea) I couldn’t unravel the yarn to be re-used.

I know…. a real learning curve ha!

I follow a great blog that has lots of info on sewing with sweater knits call Crafting Fashion.  The designer Olgalyn Jolly knits the most beautiful sweater fabric that she sells online.   So with a little courage that it might work , and knowing there was little to lose at this stage, I went for broke and cut it up to use as fabric…….!


I then cut apart a childs sweatshirt to use as my pattern ( it was stained beyond saving ).   It was a case of Bye Bye Kitty…..

cutting frnt

cutting sleeve

Using the sweatshirt sleeve as my pattern



And hello sweatshirt pieces:

all cut pieces


I used a strip of interfacing around all edges to stabilise them for sewing together:

stabilising seams


Then assembled the new child-sized sweatshirt

joining pieces

seam joining

Sewn and overlocked seams


I attached the sleeves flat and added cuffs of cotton ribbing:

sleeve bands



I also used cotton ribbing for the neckline and the waistband:

hem new

attaching waistband




Neckband was zig zagged then overlocked


new finished


closeup new



All that was left was to try it on its new owner :

red mk modelled

Finished sweatshirt

0AL 2014 – Myrna completed, dress not so much….



Oops where has the month gone? ……. First up…… I misread the closing date for the nettie sewalong which is probably just as well, since I didn’t get round to making my second Nettie yet!

I’m still working ( slowly) on my Outfit Along dress, but my cardi is finished and has been worn a few times.  The more I knit for myself, the more I’m starting to learn which changes to make in order to fit my shape (which is on the straight side fyi!).

After making a few of Andi Satterlund’s Patterns, and from looking at her finished measurement diagrams, it’s clear that she designs for a shape with a bigger difference between bust and waist than I have.   Either my waist is too big or my bust is too small (a little of each I think! ) This is pretty much the same with rtw clothing on my frame, so not a complaint about Andi’s designs!  More of a lament about sizing really.  Most sewing patterns and rtw clothing assumes  approx 8-10 inches of a  difference between bust and waist,  ( mine is only a 6″ difference).   I look forward to the day an Indie designer launches some patterns for the straight bodies out there !!



myrna cast on

The beginning :)



In the mean time I did what I do with my sewing patterns – remove some of the shaping.   I made the size small which fits really well in the shoulders/arms.  I worked the pattern as written until the underarms.  Then instead of decreasing two stitches at each side as per pattern instructions, I only decreased one stitch at each side. This gave a gentler slope at the sides and left me with more stitches and more room at the waist.


This cardigan went everywhere with me until it was done! It was such a lovely pattern to knit up and since I finished I’ve missed bringing knitting to do while I keep the kids amused on my days off.

myrna at the beach

Continued at the beach…


myrna playground knitting

Last sleeve at the playground


I wet blocked my Myrna and when it was dry I stitched on some hem tape to reinforce the button band: ( I used hem reinforcing tape as it was the only thing I had to hand but it does the job!)

band on cardi




The dress part of the OAl is not going so well unfortunately. I started with this pattern, Simplicity 1797:

oal dress pattern

Simplicity 1797


It has a nice high neckline which I like and princess seams. I intend to add a different skirt – not sure what yet though.  I made the practice bodice in a printed cotton and adjusted the seams as necessary and then transferred the changes back to the pattern.

armhold bnding



The armholes are bound in the same way as Lauren explains in her blog.  This is a lovely neat way to finish necklines or armholes, especially if the dress ia unlined.


So now I need to get my skates on and instead of making my practice dress wearable, I need to get cutting on my actual Oal dress to match my Myrna or I’ll miss another deadline !! Anyone else this far behind?

Outfit Along 2014, Nettie Sewalong etc…..!

Hey there :) There are a few things that I am juggling at the moment so I thought I’d gather them into one post!

Fabric & Yarn for #oal2014

Fabric & Yarn for #oal2014


First of all is anyone else participating in the Outfit Along ???  It’s being hosted jointly by one of my favourite knitwear designers Andi Satterlund and the lovely and entertaining Lauren aka LLadybird   The idea is to make a knitted and a sewn garment that co-ordinate before the end of July.

The suggested pattern is Myrna - a very cute cardigan, and a Simplicity dress pattern. But it’s fine to substitute other patterns.

My yarn and fabric are pictured above – I’m almost half-way through my knitting , but haven’t decided on a dress pattern just yet.   We’ve been having the most beautiful summer weather in Ireland, which means hitting the beach to make the most of it.   But my knitting has been coming along with me! I rarely read at the beach as I get too engrossed in the story and wouldn’t be able to keep an eye on the kiddies, but with knitting I can sit back and knit away while keeping an eye on everyone – win/win :)




The other project on the go is my second Nettie bodysuit, to be made from a printed stretch jersey.  My first Nettie was made with a cotton/spandex fabric :

Nettie version 1

Nettie version 1

Heather at Closet Case Files   is also hosting a Sewalong and competition, so I hope to have it ready and photographed in time to enter. I cut a size 8 with a 10 at the waist, according to my measurements.  The only changes I need to make to the next version is to shorten the length a little , to use narrower binding (especially on the legs) , and to make a slightly wider sleeve.

If the fit comes out well, I could see myself making ALOT of these – seriously! so  so handy , especially in the winter under a dress.


And finally I want to thank Helen over at Cutitoutstitchitup .  Helen nominated me for a Liebster award in April, which was a really lovely surprise but with the excitement of heading off on holidays just after, I forgot to pass it on! So  I will get onto that too!


New Make – Nettie Bodysuit

nettie 1

I made myself a nettie :) And I’m pretty sure I’ll be making more!
I followed the sewalong posted on Closet Case Files blog for the most part. I used a different method for attaching the woven fabric to the crotch area. It’s the same method I use to cover the end of a zip. So I’m sharing it here as another option in case anyone is interested :)


Fold crotch piece in half and half again and press


Pin right sides together to the front crotch piece and stitch


After stitching


Fold opposite side of cotton under


Then fold it back onto itself


Hold with a pin


Flip over and re pin ready to sew


Sew across both short ends of cotton as shown here and below


Short ends sewn - now trim down excess


Reach in and flip cotton right way out


Flipped over


Inside view


Attach snaps


Then slipstitch closed


Finished view of right side

Summer sewing – a patternless maxi skirt


I had a lovely length of viscose that was calling to me ever since I brought it home from my hols.  I had visited Rathdowne Fabrics while I was in Melbourne – and saw the biggest selection of remnant fabrics ever!!  It’s a great shop, ( big selection of fabrics)  but I was very restrained and only bought this viscose and some stretch lace pieces, as I was pretty close to my luggage allowance already.


The beauty of a maxi skirt is that it keeps you nice and cool in sunny weather, while also covering up skin prone to sunburn if  it sees the sun for more than ten minutes!  It was a quick and easy make and I snapped a few pictures as I went along.

I didn’t use a pattern for this.  Instead, I just measured from my waist to the floor and cut a rectangle across the full width of my fabric ( it was 54″ wide I think).

For the waist I used an elastic at the back and foldover waistband interfacing at the front.  I cut the interfacing to be half my waist measurement and then pinned elastic onto it while it was around my waist, adjusting the amount of elastic until it felt comfortable.


elastic and fold a



I then ironed the interfacing onto a strip of the fabric.  I  covered the elastic with a fabric casing, the fabric tube was approx twice the length of the elastic ( to allow the elastic to stretch ) I trimmed the excess fabric in the picture below to a seam allowance of 1cm for attaching to the skirt.

cover elastic

The waistband pieces were then sewn together at both ends to form a continuous circle.


I marked the center front and sides of the skirt panel by dividing it into 4 equal parts.  It was then joined right side together to the waistband.  I pleated the front skirt onto the interfaced band.  The back was sewn while stretching out the elastic.




waist pleats

After that it was just a matter of neatening the seam and trying it on before hemming!  And there you have it – no need for a pattern – a perfect summer sewing project!!!

So whats up next on the sewing table? A Nettie Bodysuit . Heather Lou has posted a sewalong to go with the pattern which should come in handy. And I think a bodysuit would go very nicely with my new maxi :)

And one last shot where you can just about see the back split.